The Civil War was fought by the opposing forces of the Union and the Confederacy, often referred to by their respective colors, the Blue and the Gray. Following the Battle of First Manassas, it became evident to both factions that the ability to distinguish between allies and adversaries was essential for effective military operations. This realization prompted the need for a standardized uniform that could be easily recognized at a glance. While some differentiation based on the branch of service was advantageous, the primary requirement was that the colors worn by the soldiers be immediately identifiable.This necessity ultimately led the Union to adopt dark blue uniforms, while the Confederacy opted for light gray. However, this is an oversimplification: Confederate soldiers primarily wore butternut, a shade of light brown, rather than gray. Moreover, in the early stages of the war, the Union army showcased a diverse array of uniforms, featuring various colors and styles, including Zouave attire, cadet gray, and a combination of both light and dark blue.At this stage of warfare, brightly colored uniforms were preferred by armies to allow identification on smoke-filled battlefields. There was no need for camouflage in these battles, but there was a heavy insistence on unit cohesion. In that sense, style followed functionality, as clothes typically do.Lloyd W Klein explains. Robert E. Lee in color.Confederate Soldiers’ UniformsAt the onset of the conflict, soldiers of the Confederacy donned garments sourced from their homes and crafted from homespun materials. As the availability of fabric diminished, the primary supply of uniforms for Confederate troops came from Union uniforms that had been captured. These dark blue uniforms were boiled in a mixture containing walnut hulls, acorns, and lye, which resulted in a light tan hue that the Confederates referred to as “butternut.” Additionally, weathered and faded gray uniforms also adopted a light brownish tint.In the initial stages of the conflict, many uniforms were adapted from those of state militias, which had their own designated uniforms. During the early confrontations, certain Confederate units donned dark blue uniforms, leading to frequent misidentification on the battlefield as they were often confused with Union forces.The establishment of the depot system in early 1862 marked a significant shift, as it facilitated the mass production and distribution of uniforms to the troops. Before this development, the "commutation system" was in effect, allowing soldiers the option to have their uniforms tailored according to the new regulations set forth by the Confederate States of America, with the assurance of reimbursement from the Confederate government. The move towards mass production not only streamlined the process of outfitting soldiers but also reflected the growing logistical capabilities of the Confederate forces as the war progressed.The choice of gray for Confederate uniforms was influenced by the cost-effectiveness of gray dye production. Furthermore, the typical uniform color for state militias was a variant of cadet gray, which proved unsuitable for combat due to its bright blue-gray tones that easily revealed a soldier's position. In contrast, generals were not bound by such concerns and often wore elegant gray uniforms that they acquired at their own expense.Contrary to the common belief that gray uniforms became less common in the Confederate army as the war progressed, the reality was quite the opposite. In 1863, the Confederacy began to procure ready-made uniforms from manufacturers located in England and Ireland. Among these suppliers, Peter Tait & Company of Ireland emerged as a significant uniform producer, successfully navigating the Union blockade to deliver their products to the Confederate forces.The Confederacy had an ample supply of cotton for the production of uniforms; however, they also utilized wool and denim. Despite this variety, they lacked the resources to manufacture uniforms in the same large quantities as the Union. Consequently, Confederate uniforms often appeared different from each other, resulting in soldiers who frequently presented a diverse and mismatched appearance.There are few photographs of Confederate soldiers that were taken in the field, as opposed to a studio. Perhaps the most famous photograph from the Civil War period is the image of three soldiers standing near a pile of lumber and a worn wagon taken soon after the Battle of Gettysburg. Scratched into the surface of one half of the stereo glass negative is written “rebel prisoners behind their breastwork.”  It was not published in the August 22, 1863 Harper’s Weekly issue that did feature 11 engravings of Mathew Brady’s other photographsA closer look at their uniforms reveals the soldiers to be much better dressed than tradition would have it. According to legend, the Battle of Gettysburg began when barefoot Confederates entered the town looking for shoes. But historian Richard Pougher has used this photograph as evidence that "the common Confederate soldier in the Army of Northern Virginia was well dressed in Southern military uniforms, well-shod, and well accoutered … He was not the ragged, barefoot, poorly equipped individual in nondescript mix-and-match clothing so many have come to see him as." Union Soldiers’ UniformsSince the Revolutionary War, American infantry has worn dark blue coats to distinguish themselves from the British Redcoats. During the Mexican War, these coats were complemented by pale blue trousers. However, with the onset of the Civil War and the need for mass production, the uniformity of dark blue became prevalent. The specific shade of blue used was known as Barlow’s indigo blue. Before the late 19th century, when Prussia perfected the mass production of inexpensive chemical dyes, natural indigo was significantly more costly than gray dyes.Interestingly, the majority of indigo production occurred in the southern states, which led the Union forces to temporarily utilize logwood dyes. These dyes had the unfortunate tendency to turn brown when exposed to sunlight, resulting in many preserved uniforms featuring brown threads. The Union continued to rely on logwood for dyeing threads and other less expensive materials, as producing these dyes in the South was challenging due to resource limitations. Consequently, the darker blue-gray hue became synonymous with Confederate gray, as it was more readily available due to the blockade.The factories in the Northern states possessed significant production capabilities, enabling them to manufacture high-quality wool uniforms for their military personnel. The soldiers of the United States were uniformly attired, presenting a cohesive appearance that reflected their well-organized outfitting. Union soldiers were equipped with a belt that secured various essential items, including a cap box, cartridge box, bayonet with scabbard, canteen, and a blanket roll containing a wool blanket, a shelter half, and a rubber blanket along with a poncho. ZouavesAt the beginning of the war,  volunteer militias tried to establish unique uniforms that would project a sense of flair and distinction. Some of the Northern militias chose to adopt elaborate red coats and trousers, drawing inspiration from the famed Zouave fighters of North Africa, recognized for their intricate uniforms embellished with tassels and their unconventional combat strategies. These elite units utilized tactics akin to light infantry, characterized by open formations, prone firing, and swift maneuvers. However, as the war continued, these specialized Zouave units gradually evolved into standard army formations, resulting in a loss of their distinctive characteristics.The Union Army boasted over seventy Zouave regiments, while the Confederacy maintained approximately twenty-five Zouave companies throughout the war. Ironically, the uniforms of the Zouaves were considered "nonuniform," as their procurement was neither straightforward nor cost-effective. Each regiment sported an oriental style of dress, yet the uniforms exhibited considerable variation due to the availability of materials and the preferences of commanding officers. Generally, the attire of the Zouave regiments bore a resemblance to that of the French Zouaves.Other special units with distinctive uniforms included: Berdan’s sharpshooters wore green uniforms with matte buttons (to prevent glare); the 39th New York Infantry called the Garibaldi Guard wore puffy red shirts like Italian soldiers; and the New York 79th called the Highland Guard wore plaid clothes and cap to simulate Scottish Highlanders. Generals and Other Officers Confederate officers initially procured their uniforms through individual purchases, which were custom-tailored until the issuance of General Order 28 on March 6, 1864. This order permitted them to acquire uniforms from the same suppliers as the enlisted troops, and at cost. As a result, the uniforms reflected a range of personal styles: General Lee, representing the upper class, opted for the finest materials and craftsmanship, while General Pickett showcased a more flamboyant and distinctive appearance.The insignia on the upright collar of full generals, lieutenant generals, major generals, and brigadier generals featured three stars embroidered in gold within a decorative wreath, with the central star being slightly larger than the others. While the collar insignia did not indicate the specific rank of the officer, the overcoats provided some distinction; major generals and lieutenant generals displayed two rows of nine buttons arranged in groups of three, whereas brigadier generals had two rows of eight buttons organized in pairs. ButtonsCivil War Uniforms identified individual soldiers and the units they belonged to. Identification included buttons, colors, and rank markings.For the ranks of Second Lieutenants, First Lieutenants, and Captains, the uniform consisted of a single-breasted frock coat adorned with nine uniformly spaced buttons along the front, mirroring the design worn by enlisted personnel. The cuffs of enlisted uniforms featured two small buttons accompanied by an inverted chevron in the respective branch color, whereas officers' cuffs displayed three small buttons without any chevron.  Higher-ranking officers, including Majors, Lieutenant Colonels, and Colonels, donned a double-breasted frock coat characterized by seven evenly spaced buttons on each row. Brigadier Generals wore a similar double-breasted coat, but with eight buttons arranged in pairs. Major Generals, Major General Commanding, and Lieutenant Generals all shared the same style, featuring a double-breasted frock coat with nine buttons grouped in threes, along with three small cuff buttons and cuffs made of dark blue velvet. IndividualityUnion officers had to purchase their uniforms. Many field leaders by 1864 went with private purchase sack coats for comfort and because they would be cheaper to replace than frock coats, which required a lot of hand sewing and detail work. Many line and field grade officers by 1864 were also wearing subdued rank rather than shoulder straps. Subdued rank consists of merely the rank insignia sewn on the shoulders or even on the collar of a private purchase sack coat.This fascinating photograph of II Corps leadership shows how different officers chose their individual styles. General Winfield Scott Hancock is shown with his 3 division commanders in the Wilderness, in May 1864. Hancock is seated still recuperating from his wound at Gettysburg. To the left is Maj Gen Francis Barlow is wearing his trademark checkered flannel lumberjack shirt with an open uniform coat. Note too the length of his sword: he carried an enlisted man’s cavalry saber.. To his left is Major General David Birney, and General John Gibbon. Gibbon is wearing  a regulation sack coat. Hancock and Birney are wearing the regulation Major General frock coat.The general dress of Barlow is interesting and stylish, His coat is a 9 button jacket left open, and his trademark plaid shirt with a tie. The important feature of the plaid shirt is the presence of a white collar, which came with white cuffs, so when the jacket is buttoned it appears that he is wearing a white shirt., the color of a gentleman. He has the standing collar turned down and the front lapelled out, which was a common fashion in both armies at the time. Regulation called for ties at all times, and all 4 officers are wearing one. The only time that a tie could be omitted is if the officer is wearing a vest, but Barlow did both.Barlow is also wearing an enlisted cavalry saber, while Gibbon wears the Model 1861 Staff Officer sword. Both wear their sword belt under their coats, with Barlow wearing what appears to be a standard issue belt. Birney is probably wearing, a Generals Officer belt, and over his frock per regulation. Hancock doesn’t appear to be wearing a belt at all, and most likely grabbed his sword for the photo op.If the jacket doesn't have hooks or pillows on the back to support the saber belt at the true waist, then the common practice was to wear it around the waistband of the trouser, for support. ReferencesLloyd W Klein The Blue and the Gray. Rebellion Research.  https://www.rebellionresearch.com/the-blue-and-the-grayhttps://www.civilwaracademy.com/civil-war-uniformhttps://www.warhistoryonline.com/american-civil-war/zouave-regiments-civil-war.htmlhttps://howardlanham.tripod.com/linkgr5/link221.html